Are you ready for a new project that’s both fun and easy? We’ve got just the thing for you! Introducing the newest doll in our Zoya and Zayd crochet doll series: a new crochet doll with an adorable ponytail and a beautiful lacy skirt. This doll is perfect for beginners, with step-by-step instructions and detailed photos to guide you through the process.
I initially designed this doll for a giveaway for a raffle for a reunion at my high school. So I made her into a cute little cheerleader! But this girl is so adorable that is really perfect for any occasion.
One of the coolest things about this pattern is that, if you want to mix things up and give your doll a different hairstyle, you can customize her hair using patterns from our other dolls in the series. . This gives you even more room to experiment and let your creativity run wild.
So why not give this free pattern a try? Whether you’re an experienced crocheter or just starting out, you will love this pattern. With its easy-to-follow instructions, detailed photos, and customizability, it’s the perfect project for anyone looking to expand their crochet skills and create something truly special. So grab your supplies and get started today – we can’t wait to see what you create!
Want to save this pattern for later? Pin it to your Pinterest Board.
Amigurumi Doll with a Skirt Free Pattern
This pattern is for your personal use only and cannot be sold, copied, or reproduced in anyway without permission from the designers. You may sell finished objects made from this pattern but please give credit to chaicoffeecrochet.com as the pattern designers.
Tools and Supplies You Will Need
- Yarn: Less than 50 grams of DK yarn in skin colour and skirt colour and a small amount in the shirt, soles of the shoes, shoes, socks, and hair colour.
- 2.75mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch marker
- Polyfill stuffing
- Two 10 mm safety eyes
- Embroidery thread in black for the eyelashes and light pink for the mouth.
Stitches Used and Abbreviations
This pattern is written in US terms and crocheted in continuous rounds, unless specified otherwise.
Sl st: slip stitch
SC: single crochet
INVDEC: invisible decrease
INC: two SC in the same stitch
BLO: back loops only
HDC: half double crochet
DC: double crochet
4 DC Bobble: See special stitches
4 DC Bobble:
We will be using this stitch to make the thumb on your doll’s hand.
- Yarn over. Insert hook into the next stitch. Pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through two loops. (2 loops on your hook)
- Yarn over. Insert hook into the same stitch. Pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through two loops. (3 loops on your hook)
- Yarn over. Insert hook into the same stitch. Pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through two loops. (4 loops on your hook)
- Yarn over. Insert hook into the same stitch. Pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through two loops. (5 loops on your hook)
- Then yarn over and pull through all five loops.
Finished size: Approximately 10.5 inches tall
How To Crochet a Doll with a Skirt
Arms (make 2)
Begin with skin colour yarn. Stuff the arms lightly at the bottom and leave the rest of the arm unstuffed.
Round 1: 6 SC in a magic circle (6)
Round 2: (2 SC, INC) twice (8)
Round 3: SC around (8)
Round 4: 3 SC, 4 DC bobble, 4 SC (8)
Round 5: 6 SC, INVDEC (7)
Round 6-14 (9 rounds): SC around (7)
Change to shirt colour
Round 15: SC around (7)
Round 16: SC around in BLO (7)
Round 17: SC around (7)
Tip: If you prefer to crochet in the arms (which we totally recommend because, well, who enjoys sewing??), see our tutorial on crocheting arms to your amigurumi to see how to finish off the arms. If you prefer to sew on the arms, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Legs (make 2)
Tip: The base shape of the shoe is an oval, so we will be crocheting around chain, rather than a magic circle as we usually do with amigurumi. If you are new to crocheting around a chain, we have a tutorial on how to crochet an oval for amigurumi.
Begin with the soles of the shoes colour. Stuff as you go.
Round 1: Chain 7. Starting in the second chain from the hook, INC, 4 SC, 4 SC in the next chain as your work turns. Now continue on the other side of the chain. 4 SC and INC in the last chain (16)
Round 2: (INC) in each of the first two stiches, 4 SC, (INC) in each of the next 4 stitches, 4 SC, (INC) in each of the next two stitches (24)
Change to the shoe colour
Round 3: SC around in BLO (24)
At this stage you want to be at the center of the shoe so that the decreases are evenly spaced. You may need to do one more SC or so to get to the center (the placement of where you end up could vary based on your yarn and tension) and then mark that as the end of Round 3.
Round 4: 6 SC, INVDEC, 2 SC, (INVDEC) twice, 2 SC, INVDEC, 6 SC (20)
Round 5: 5 SC, INVDEC, SC, (INVDEC) twice, SC, INVDEC, 5 SC (16)
Round 6: 4 SC, (INVDEC) four times, 4 SC (12)
Change to sock colour
Round 7: SC around in BLO (12)
Round 8: SC around (12)
Round 9: SC around in BLO (12)
Change to skin colour
Round 10: SC around in BLO (12)
Round 11-22 (12 rounds): SC around (12)
You should be on the left side of the leg in the middle, like in this photo. If you’re not there (since this may vary based on the yarn you use and your tension), do any additional stitches you need to get there.
Fasten off for the first leg.
Do the same for the second leg. However, in Round 22 continue for 6 more stitches than you did for the first leg, until you end up on the right side of the leg at the center, opposite of where you ended up on the first leg. This way, when you join the legs, both legs will be facing forward.
You will be joining the legs from the back of your doll so that all the colour changes stay in the back.
Do not fasten off for the second leg.
Change to skirt colour
Round 23: Chain 3 and SC in the next unworked stitch of the first leg. Place a stitch marker in this stitch to mark the start of your round. SC in the remaining 11 stitches of the first leg until you reach the chain, SC in each of the 3 chains, SC in the 12 stitches of the next leg, and SC on the other side of each of the three chains until you reach your stitch marker. (30)
See our tutorial on how to join legs for amigurumi.
Round 24: (9 SC, INC) three times (33)
Round 25-28 (4 rounds): SC around (33)
Change to shirt colour
Round 29-30 (2 rounds): SC in each stitch in BLO (33)
Round 31: (9 SC, INVDEC) three times (30)
Round 32-36 (5 rounds): SC around (30)
Round 37: (8 SC, INVDEC) three times (27)
Round 38-39 (2 rounds): SC around (27)
Round 40: (7 SC, INVDEC) three times (24)
Note: If you’re crocheting the arms in, do so during Round 40, on each side of the body, making sure that the thumbs are pointing forward. See our tutorial on crocheting arms to your amigurumi
Change to skin colour
Round 41: (2 SC, INVDEC) six times in BLO (18)
Round 42: (SC, INVDEC) six times (12)
We will now continue onto the head. Do not fasten off.
Round 43: SC around (12)
Round 44: (SC, INC) six times (18)
Round 45: (2 SC, INC) six times (24)
Round 46: (3 SC, INC) six times (30)
Round 47: (4 SC, INC) six times (36)
Round 48: (5 SC, INC) six times (42)
Round 49: (6 SC, INC) six times (48)
Round 50-59 (10 rounds): SC around (48)
Insert safety eyes between Rounds 52 and 53, eight stitches apart. Once you are satisfied with the placement of the eyes, embroider on eyelashes. Put the washer firmly on the back.
Tip: It’s really important to keep the neck firm and avoid wobbly head. See our tutorial on how to prevent wobbly heads for crochet dolls and amigurumi.
Round 60: (6 SC, INVDEC) six times (42)
Round 61: (5 SC, INVDEC) six times (36)
Round 62: (4 SC, INVDEC) six times (30)
Round 63: (3 SC, INVDEC) six times (24)
Round 64: (2 SC, INVDEC) six times (18)
Ensure that the head is well stuffed.
Round 65: (SC, INVDEC) six times (12)
Round 66: INVDEC six times (6)
Fasten off and leave a long tail to embroider on the nose. Embroider on the nose by making two to three passes over three stitches, one row below the eyes. Use light pink to embroider on the mouth three rows below the nose. If you haven’t yet attached the arms, sew them on between rounds 40 and 41.
Note: This pattern comes with a ponytail hair cap. However, you can use any of the hair caps in Zoya & Zayd series for your doll.
Use hair colour yarn
Round 1: 6 SC in a magic circle (6)
Round 2: INC in each stitch around (12)
Round 3: (SC, INC) six times (18)
Round 4: (2 SC, INC) six times (24)
Round 5: (3 SC, INC) six times (30)
Round 6: (4 SC, INC) six times (36)
Round 7: (5 SC, INC) six times (42)
Round 8: (6 SC, INC) six times (48)
Round 9-18 (10 rounds): SC around (48)
Note: The hair cap width can vary based on the yarn that you’re using so try it onto your doll’s head and see if you want to increase or decrease rounds here before working on the final round.
Round 19: The hair cap instructions for this round can be confusing so I’m going to break them down into sections. Please note that the next section of bullet points are all for Round 19 of the hair cap:
- First we will make the front parting of the hair. 15 DC, sl st in the next 2 stitches, 11 DC, sl st
- 19 SC and sl st to the first st
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew onto head.
Use hair colour yarn.
In a magic circle, (Ch 50. Starting from the second chain on the hook, 49 HDC. Sl st into the magic circle) six times
Note: You can make the ponytail as long or as short as you like by adding or subtracting the number of chains you begin with for each strand.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the ponytail onto the top of the hair cap.
Ears (make 2)
Use skin colour
Round 1: 4 SC in a magic circle (4)
Fasten off and sew onto the head between Rounds 51 and 53.
Use skirt colour
Turn your doll upside down and attach yarn centred at the back of the doll in the front loops from Round 28.
Round 1: Ch 1. (10 SC, INC) three times. Sl st to the first SC. (36)
Round 2: Ch 1. (5 SC, INC) six times. Sl st to the first SC (42)
Round 3: Chain 4. HDC in the same stitch. Skip 2 stitches. *(HDC, chain 2, HDC) in the next stitch. Skip 2 stitches.* Repeat between ** 13 times around. Sl st into the second chain of the chain 4 at the start of the round.
Round 4-6 (3 rounds): Sl st into the first chain space. Chain 4. HDC in the first chain space. (HDC, chain 2, HDC) in each chain space around. Sl st into the second chain from the chain 4 at the start of the round. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Your Zoya crochet doll with a skirt is now complete
In conclusion, we hope you’ll enjoy creating this super cute crochet doll with a skirt as much as we did! If you enjoyed this, here are some other patterns that you may enjoy